Slowly, but surely

Ken Wells of the Wall Street Journal finds some good news (free feature): "The cooks are coming back to New Orleans."

Quote:

Ellen Harris, a freelance writer, photographer and producer, is one of the waitees (at Bacco on Chartres Street) and she's deliriously happy. "We needed good news in this town and word of Bacco's opening spread fast," she says. "It's not just the food, though. It's the ritual gathering with friends to laugh, to lament, to linger, to savor. This is the ritual of New Orleans -- we grew up doing this."